If a subject catches his interest he researches it with a thoroughness that is nothing less than terrifying to ordinary mortals. In his quest for authentic coq au vin he scours New York for roosters and chickens' blood. His experiments with coffee-making involve covering his dining table with 14 home espresso machines. As for his attempts to arrange a hot enough oven to bake the perfect pizza - no, we won't go into that.
This is not a book of amusing anecdotes, though some are scattered through it. The essays vary. Some are wonderful pieces of research (I especially enjoyed the piece on MSG), while others are accounts of Steingarten's search for culinary enlightenment in various parts of the world. Occasionally his considerable ego does tend to get a bit overpowering but, well, he's a lawyer and a New Yorker...
Although I found this book marginally less enjoyable than its predecessor, it is still wonderfully entertaining and informative. One can only admire somebody so dedicated to his work that he will subject himself to a brain scan in order to test the theory that obsession with food is caused by some sort of lesion.